Top 10 tips for coaching 6 year old kid soccer

November 15, 2008

This fall I coached my six year old daughter’s soccer team. It was my first time coaching anything, ever, and I really wasnt much of a soccer player as a kid. I’m sure I embarrassed my dad (who was my team’s coach) as I kicked daisies and stood back and watched the other kids making it happen. Nonetheless, I had a hunch that coaching 6 year olds had little to do with either coaching or soccer experience and I was right. 

Here in Seattle, we don’t keep score until kids are 10 or so, so I can’t quote a smashing record, but I can say that the season was a success based on the level of excitement, great attendance, and skills that I saw them develop through the season. 

The tips below are not all mine–I consulted many different resources throughout the season to help me through this–but these are the things that contributed most to my successful season. Here it goes:

Kids soccer

Kids soccer

Top Ten Tips for coaching 6 year old soccer:

  1. Set the right expectations with parents before the season. I heard horror stories overly eager parents yelling at refs and kids from the sidelines. At this age making it fun and teaching good sportsmanship is more important than anything else.  I decided that our goals as a team would be 1) have lots of fun, 2) introduce/learn teamwork and sportsmanship and 3) learn some basic soccer skills. I sent these goals out to all the parents before the season and repeated this to the girls at the first few practices. We had a great atmosphere at games. 
  2. Recruit a team manager and assistant coach. I emailed all the parents to see if someone would volunteer to be the team manager. Helen volunteered. She was wonderful. She took care of all the details from arranging halftime snacks to planning the end of year party. Her efforts helped me spend more time focusing on coaching. Mark volunteered to be assistant coach–he was a great help as well bringing new ideas to practices and allowing us the break into smaller groups. 
  3. Make it fun. There is nothing more important than this. I tried to keep things light. Laugh. Let each of them talk. Let them giggle. Have fun yourself and they’ll follow. 
  4. Have a plan for every practice. There are tons of resources out there to help you plan practices. Use them. Be prepared. 
  5. Get them involved. I did two things that helped set a team atmosphere. First, we chose our team name, (the Cheetahs) as a team–we picked our favorite animals and then voted. The other thing I did that was a big hit was that I let them each pick a warm up exercise at the start of each practice and game. I’d start off with 1-2 exercises and then we’d go around and they’d each have a chance to lead. This was great because it not only allowed them to practice being leader, but it also brought out some creativity (some of the girls began to make up crazy exercises.)  
  6. Scrimmage. Spend at least 20 minutes every practice scrimmaging. There is nothing better to teach them than actually playing the game. 
  7. Connect with them. We started most practices and games with a bit of chit chat. I asked each of them what they thought of the previous weekend’s game, what they were planning to wear on Halloween, and what was funny at school. I think this chit chat time allowed them to get to know each other. I also started high-fiving every practice and every game (usually at the end). The girls loved this. I’d get down at their level and they’d maul me with high fives. It was very cute. 
  8. Play with them. Put your cleats (or running shoes) on and scrimmage with them. Its fun and you can demonstrate things like communicating (“I’m open!”) and passing, which are hard for them to learn. You don’t have to be very good, to be better than a 6 year old.  
  9. Play sharks and minnows at the end of practice. We actually didn’t do this until the end of the season, but it was one of their favorite things, and I never saw them run faster. 
  10. Stay in tune. When things deterioriate in practice (as they inevitably do), mix it up. When the girls start to lose focus, fool around, play in the dirt, etc, change drills, make them run.  The key is to recognize when they’ve lost interest and do something about it. 

Good luck!

Is Cobra health insurance worth it?

October 22, 2008

I recently left my job and now need to obtain health insurance for my family of 4. Cobra insurance is available to me through my former employer, All Star Directories, at the rate of $893 a month for medical insurance and $143 for dental insurance, totaling a whopping $1,036 per month.

So the question is: Is paying over $1000 a month for Cobra health insurance work it?

Cobra Health Insurance

This is actually a very complicated question, which I’ve been pondering and analyzing for a week or two. This blog takes you through how I’ve thought about this–maybe it will help you if you are in the same position. 

The first thing that I did was to take a look at 2 years of past medical and dental bills. Rather than looking at the bills themselves, I looked at the Explanation of Benefit statements over that time period. Explanation of Benefit statements are sent to you by your insurance company every time there is an medical or dental bill. The statements tell you what they were billed, how much of a discount was applied to the bill, what insurance is covering and what you are responsible for. Most people probably throw these away… for years I didnt know what to do with these things, but stuffed them into a folder just in case. 

I entered all the information from the Explanation of Benefit statements into a spreadsheet to get a sense of what our total medical and dental expenses have been and to understand the value of the insurance over that time period. 87 rows later… 

The table below shows average monthly data over a 2 year period: 

Our monthly health costs

Our monthly health costs

  • Total monthly billings is what we were billed on average.
  • Insurance discount is the discount on the bill that the insurance company applied b/c of their buying power and pre-negotiated rates
  • Insurance paid is what the insurance companies ended up paying
  • We paid is of course what we were out of pocket for
  • One thing this table does not consider is prescriptions.

You can see that if we had no insurance at all, we would have been out of pocket $588 per month. Whoa?! So why have any insurance at all if our average out of pocket is less than Cobra? Clearly Cobra would not have paid looking backwards.

Of course, like car insurance or home insurance, one of the key reasons to have health insurance is to cover catastrophic events. If someone in our family came was hospitalized for weeks or months, we’d likely be bankrupt without insurance. 

Another thing that this analysis brought to light for me is the value that insurance companies provide in obtaining discounts for procedures. In our case this discount amounted to 20% of the total cost, which is substantial. 

So what to do now? 

I next looked to see if buying insurance through COBRA saved us any money for an equivalent plan. I couldn’t find the answer. Regence Blue Shield doesn’t even offer family plans with the same low deductible that I was getting through my former employer ($750 annual deductible for the whole family.) So, one benefit of Cobra might be that you can have access to a plan which you wouldn’t otherwise have access to. For us however, now that we are footing the bill, the $1000 seemed like a bad deal. 

I went shopping online for other options. I discovered a huge range of medical and dental insurance available for individuals and families.  The options for medical insurance for our whole family ranged from $205 to $1738 per month.

I used the site www.ehealthinsurance.com to compare rates. This is a great site for shopping for medical and dental insurance because it compares plans across many health insurance providers. 

We ended up choosing a plan that cost us $277 for medical insurance. We chose not to get any dental insurance. 

Here was our reasoning: 

  • Annual out of pocket limit: The primary factor we looked in comparing health plans was catastrophic coverage. Most plans call this the “annual out of pocket limit”. The cheapest plans out there have very high out of pocket limits,  $30,000 – 60,000. The key thing here is to consider how much your family could handle out of pocket. Do you have $60,000 in funds at hand? If not, choose a plan with a lower limit. We chose a plan with a limit of $10,200. This $10k was inclusive of the deductible (rather than on top of.) 
  • Annual Deductible: We chose a moderate family deductible of $4000. The thing to think about here is how much you think you spend vs. how much you can afford. If you expect a lot of medical costs, you might want I lower annual deductible, but of course your premiums will go up. 
  • Prescription drugs: One of the main considerations we had was whether or not to get prescription drug coverage. Covering for prescription drugs is expensive–it nearly doubled the cost of insurance. Noboby in our family is on any expensive drugs now so this seemed like a bad bet. Of course the risk we are taking is that nobody comes down with an exotic disease prevented only by exotic, expensive drugs.
  • Day-to-day costs: In looking at the day to day costs, these were less of a consideration, as we were primarily focused on catastrophic. Of course, the benefit we’ll get from insurance is the discount the insurance company will demand from any provider. 
  • Dental: We decided not to get dental insurance. I found that the 2 main reasons we opted to purchase health insurance did not apply: there really are no catastrophic dental situations that I could think of (most of these actually qualify under your medical coverage… like if you are in an accident and lose your teeth) and I found that the insurance company didn’t really provide any negotiated discounts. 
So clearly in our case, purchasing Cobra would have been a really bad deal. 

A couple tips when you are looking for health insurance:

  • If you are married, include your spouse in the decision making. Laura, my wife, had a lot of insight to add in the process and clearly I wanted to ensure she was on the same page.
  • Start early… the process of choosing a health insurance provider and getting signed up takes time. Don’t wait until the day before your insurance runs out to do this. You don’t want to have any gaps in coverage because insurance companies are very wary of this. In our case it took about 10 days to process everything.
 

Top ten tips for kids backpacking

September 28, 2008


This summer we took our 2 young kids backpacking. Our kids are 4 and 6. We went with another family with 3 kids whose youngest is 3. Many people thought we were a bit crazy, but we pulled it off and they had a great time.  

For the kids, this was a huge adventure and a great experience.

As a bit of a background, we had taken our kids camping 3 times before this, so they knew the ropes, but in my opinion taking your kids camping beforehand isn’t a pre-requisite. Adding a backpack and a hike to the mix simply requires more planning on your part–its no more for the kids.

Here are my tips for a successful trip backpacking with kids:
  1. Start small. We hiked to Hyas lake (yes this is pronounced “high-ass” lake) which is on the eastern side of the North Cascades in Washington State just north of Cle Elum. The hike in was a flat mile and a half, which took us about an hour and a half. This was a perfect distance. For the most part, there was little whining and the kids were pretty enthusiastic. Any longer and things might have gone downhill.
  2.  

  3. Plan your route using a good guidebook for KIDS hikes. We used a great book called Best Hikes with Kids – Western Washington and the Cascades by Joan Burton. I almost didnt buy this because I already have a library of guidebooks, but I think this was definitely worth the investment. A kids focused guidebook will ensure that you only consider hikes that are suitable. All the risks that you might worry about, such as steep cliffy trails, or rushing rivers, will be called out for each hike.
  4.  

  5. Go with friends. We went with another family whose kids are friends with ours. The kids kept each other going, and there was even a bit of a competition on the trail to see who was the toughest. At night after the kids are asleep, you’ve got someone to sip your bourbon with.
  6.  

  7. Give them their own flashlight and/or headlamp, cup, bowl and spoon. Let’s face it… half the fun of camping for kids is all the gear.
  8.  

  9. Be very patient on the trail and expect it to take three times as long as with adults. This is very important… If you are trying to rush things, nobody will have any fun. Let them stop and look under mossy rocks. On the trail, we broke up into several groups based on pace so that the smaller kids could go at their own pace.
  10.  

  11. Bring freeze dried ice cream sandwiches. Roast marshmallows. Treats are good and keep everyone happy.
  12.  

  13. Overlook the dirt. Your kids will get incredibly dirty. It will be in their hair, on their faces, and they’ll have filthy hands. They will drop their utensils in the dirt. Go with it. Getting extra dirty for a couple days won’t kill anyone–in fact, you don’t even get sick from dirt.
  14.  

  15. Keep them in site at all times. I am very risk averse with our kids. Even if you’ve picked a flat hike away from rushing rivers, there are still bears depending on where you are. If you are near your kids, and run into a bear, you’ll be fine–most adults intimidate bears because of our height (thank god). If your kids are 200 yards ahead of you and around a bend and they run into a bear, this might be trouble.
  16.  

  17. Asign a leader and rotate. Kids love to be the leader. The leader hikes in front and sets the pace. This definitely kept things moving.
  18.  

  19. Establish clear rules for them before you set off. The primary rule we set was related to #8–stay within site and stick together.

Trip Report: Climbing Mt Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route

August 1, 2008

On the weekend of July 26, 2008, I climbed Mt Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route with Tom Romary, Dan Pingree, Joe Heitzberg, and Mark Maunder. Tom was our fearless leader.

 

We met at the White River campground on Thursday night. Oddly, there were almost no mosquitoes. The weather was clear and warm, though there was a storm in the forecast. Fortunately, it was expected to hit Saturday night–we planned to summit on Friday night. Nonetheless, we were crossing our fingers.

 

We drank a few beers, reviewed crevasse rescue in Freedom of the Hills(best mountaineering instruction book available), and then went to bed, sleeping under the stars. We saw numerous satellites and a couple shooting stars–a great show. We awoke at 6am and were on the trail by 9am.

 

The trail between the White River Campground and Glacier Basin was totally wiped out a couple years ago b/c of major winter storms. The Park service has done a good job of constructing a makeshift trail, but this definitely slowed us down a bit.

 

The mosquitoes at Glacier Basin were horrendous. This was true also when I camped here in 2002 on our descent from the peak. We pulled out some pure Deet to ward them off. We had a quick snack here. Birds are aggressive here and we almost lost a bag of food.

 


Just before we reached the bottom of the Inter Glacier, Mark announced that he was having real trouble with his heels–major blisters. He actually had decided to turn back. Tom and I did our best to convince him to keep moving. Even if he only made it to Camp Schurman, that would be worth a little pain. He decided to keep going, which ended up being a great decision.  

 

We made it to Camp Schurman at about 4pm (7 hours hiking). The space was very tight as there was a lot of snow–many of the typical sites were still buried under snow. Since we were one of the later parties to arrive, we had to make do and squeezed Tom’s expedition North Face tent between some friendly neighbors. We made a yummy dinner of pasta and canned chicken, packed our bags for the morning and went to bed at 8:30.



We awoke at 11:45 (I didn’t really sleep a wink) to clear skies. The sky was full of stars and we watched the orange half moon rise as we prepped for the climb. More shooting stars, more satellites… I must say the night sky is one of my favorite aspects of climbing Rainier. There are few times in my life that I feel the vastness of the universe–the Rainier night sky has this impact.

 

We gulped down some coffee and oatmeal to fuel up for the long day ahead. We left Camp Schurmann at 1am.

 

The first hour we kept a pretty good pace. The route was in great shape because of the big winter snowpack of 2008. Our pace was pretty slow as we had many stops for water, snacks and equipment issues.

 

I hiked with my headlamp turned off for most of the way as there was ample light reflecting off the snow from the half moon and stars. Most people did use their headlamps.

Mark had some problems on the climb with his stomach and generally feeling crappy. At one point he puked and kept on hiking. He definitely wins the award for most tenacity. Tom did a great job as trip leader keeping Mark going when the going got tough.

 

We ascended the Corridor and then the route veered right and climbed the headwall, where the route gets a bit steeper. The route then went further right traversing past the bergschrund. The crevasses and ice formations were very cool here.

We got to the summit mound where we took off our crampons to climb the remaining 200 feet or so on the dirt, dust and lava rock. Tom stopped here with Mark and Joe to make some soup to aid Mark’s condition. Dan and I climbed to the peak. We summitted at about 9:30AM (8 1/2 hours of climbing). Great views and a great feeling of satisfaction.

We started descending at about 10:30. The first hour tested the group’s patience as we had just a few too many stops and delays. We finally got moving after Tom got ornery. From then on, we made great time and whizzing down the mountain.

 

We arrived at Camp Schurman at 2:30 (4 hr descent) exhausted.

 

We debated for a long time what to do next. Tom really wanted to get home that night. I was more ambivalent. Others were the same. We lazed around, cooked some food, took naps, and finally decided to descend. We didnt leave Schurman until 5:30 and knew that we’d be racing the darkness.

 

We raced down the hill, glissading most of the Inter Glacier and got lost at the bottom of the Inter Glacier. I have no idea how this happened. It was probably my fault as I was in the lead trying to keep the pace fast. I think we went left too early off the snowfield at the bottom of the glacier. We crossed a band of dirt and rock and hit another snowfield. We decided to keep moving down the snowfield we were on, knowing that it all funnelled down to the same spot. It did. We hit the trail and kept going.

 

We arrived at the cars at 9pm (3 1/2 hours from Schurman), just after darkness. A very long day indeed… Aside from our 3 hour break at Schurman we had been moving since 1AM, 20 hours straight.

 

The drive home was brutal. Tom, Dan and I stopped in Enumclaw for dinner at a Mexican place. I almost fell asleep at dinner. Tom took the wheel, because I was toast. I finally got home at around 1:30, 26 hours after waking up to start our climb. Next time, I’ll camp.

 

Summit day I wore the right amount of clothing. What I wore:

gore tex bib pants & jacket

  • fleece jacket
  • long underwear top & bottom
  • Scarpa Charmoz GTX boots–these were fantastic
  • sock liners & wool socks
  • some crummy ski gloves (lightweight mountaineering gloves would be better)
  • balaclava & helmet
  • Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness (I bought it for this trip to replace my 15 year old rock climbing harness. Perfect for this trip as its light and also inexpensive.)
  • and of course crampons

John Cook wrote a story about this. Check it out here: http://blog.seattlepi.nwsource.com/venture/archives/145382.asp

Here is a link to Mark’s account:

Here are some pictures from Joe:

Here are some pictures from Dan:

Surfing Westport Washington The Beach 11/25/07

November 25, 2007

I surfed the beach today at Westport. Great conditions. Solid overhead waves with double overhead sets. Sunny with an offshore breeze.

Buoy 46041 was showing 6.6 feet at 13 seconds, WNW swell. Winds ESE at 6 knots.

About 20 guys out. Tough paddle to get out, but tip of the day was had when I followed a local out my second paddle–I stuck close to the jetty where tide took me directly out with little pain, though a bit scary close to the rocks… The Groins didn’t look like much. The Cove was pretty small but surfable.

Surfing Westport Washington The Cove: 10/21/07

October 21, 2007

Another great session at the Cove.

A little windy and stormy, but the winds were mostly offshore, so it was ok. The set waves coming through were a bit sporadic, but worth the wait–really good shape and decent size. I did check the Groins which was pretty big and ugly. Because of the high tide, everything was washing up on the rocks.

West swell 8 feet 11 seconds. I was out on a high tide of 7 feet. The wind was 17 knots from the South.

All data was from Station 46041 – CAPE ELIZABETH.

Trip Report: Climbing Mount Olympus via the Blue Glacier

July 18, 2007



On July 14, 2007, Tom Romary and I climbed Mount Olympus via the Blue Glacier.

We got a really late start out of Seattle on Thursday night (10pm) and drove to the Hoh Rainforest visitor center at 3am. Whizzing through the little town of Forks on the Olympic Peninsula at 2am, we got a speeding ticket–ughhh!
We car camped at the Hoh visitor center and awoke Friday morning to a wet tent–it had rained… not exactly what you hope for on the start of a climbing trip. After a leisurely morning, we hit the trailhead at 11:30 and started our 18 mile trek up the Hoh river valley to basecamp.
Tom had forgotten his bowl, cup, spoon and fork. I had an extra bowl and cup, but we were facing 2 days of either sharing our utensils or Tom eating with his hands (I wasn’t sure which yet.) Incredibly as we hiked along the Hoh river, Tom found a set of plastic utensils on the ground. I was relieved.
The first 13-14 miles of the approach went pretty quickly–easy, flat hiking. Its a beautiful hike and would be a perfect trail to backpack with kids. Along the way we saw tons of huge sitka spruce and cedar trees.
At about 4pm the trail started to climb. We crossed an amazing footbridge over a rushing tributary to the Hoh River. The river was in a super narrow canyon and about 100 feet deep.
The last 4 miles was absolutely brutal. After hiking 14 flat miles we climbed 4000 feet in the last 4 miles. We arrived at basecamp at Glacier Meadows at 8pm–8 1/2 hours of hiking–completely spent.
We woke on Saturday morning at 5AM to clear skies. On the trail by 6:30, we followed the signs to the Terminal Moraine. Wrong! The Lateral Moraine is the way to go… Anyhow, we tried finding the glacier and ended up at a dead end cliff. We backtracked and finally found the Lateral Moraine trail. Just before arriving at the Blue Glacier, the trail follows a steep knife edge ridge and finally down a scree field to the glacier. We crossed the Blue Glacier and went up a snow chute which is clearly not passable later in the summer with less snow. I think this chute saved us a lot of time, so I’d recommend climbing this route early while snow covered.
Up the chute, through some rock bands and reached the final stretch before the snow dome. WE caught up with 2 other groups at the snow dome and passed them at the bergschrund where we forged a path over a huge snow bridge.
We hiked around the corner onto a south facing slope and climbed the backside of the “5 fingers”. Here we reached a cliff, where we got a great view of the summit. We backtracked a bit and went up and over the 5 fingers through a chute and downclimbed to get to the saddle in front of the summit. We climbed a short steep snowfield and arrived at the summit block at 10:30 (a 4 hour climb).
There are a couple options to climb the summit block. First was to climb a 40 foot 5.6 to 5.7 on good solid rock. The second option was to climb around the back of the block on a 4th class scramble, but with huge exposure (1000-2000 feet?). We basically wimped out. A team that arrived behind us climbed the block via the scramble.
From the peak, the views to the east were amazing. Baker, Rainier, Adams, and St Helens were all in sight along with innumerable jagged Olympic range peaks.
Fun boot glissading on the descent. Tom poked through on the snow chute a couple times so that we could see we were essentially on a flake of snow above the a cliff.
We had a great dinner that night at Glacier Meadows and left the next morning at 8am for the car. The flat section was brutal. Both of us in immense foot pain, we hobbled our way to the car. We arrived at 3 pm after 7 hours of hiking.
Some tips on climbing Mount Olympus:
  1. Be prepared for the summit block if you want to get to the true peak. We had the rope and protection, but our skills were quite rusty and as young dads, our risk tolerance low. :-)
  2. Mosquitoes–there are tons of them. Bring lots of deet and slather it on.
  3. The approach–we were kind of attracted to the physical challenge of doing the approach in one day. We both felt great about pulling this off, but next time I think I’d save the pain and break it up a bit. Certainly, we could have descended the first 4 miles on Saturday (summit day)
  4. Footwear: We debated this. Tom said that next time, he’d wear a pair of light hiking boots for the approach. I’m somehow totally against carrying mountaineering boots in my backpack, and my foot pain wasnt a result of bad boots, so I’d wear my Scarpa Charmoz GTX boots again. I might consider buying a nicer footsole.
  5. Bring crocs for camp–your feet will love them.
  6. Pack light. Its a long way in.

Surfing Westport Washington at the Cove 10/29/05

October 30, 2005

Epic, epic surfing today at Westport. Just about as good as any day I’ve seen at Ocean Beach, SF–I didn’t realize the surfing could get that good in Washington.

The night before the swell was 14′ & 13 seconds at bouy 46041 at Cape Elizabeth. Swell direction was West. Swell was forecasted to drop and though the night before was stormy, winds were forecasted to drop to 8mph out of the South.

Tom Romary and I showed up at 8:30 and checked the Groins. It was high tide and the waves were huge, but the other options were looking pretty grim so we decided to suit up. As we were about to jump in, sanity stepped in and we realized that it was a deathtrap we were walking into with the heavy surf washing right up onto the rocks within each jetty. So we drove to the Cove and surfed there.

Winds were offshore, skies were blue and the waves couldn’t have been much better. It was about 2 feet overhead, hollow, throwing top to bottom–perfectly shaped waves breaking nearly right on shore. Several locals were ripping it up getting deep barrels. Tom & I were merely trying to survive.

The bouy read upon return was: Winds out of the ESE at 9 knots. Waves 10′ at 13 seconds from the West.

Trip Report: Climbing Mt Baker via the Coleman/Deming route

August 11, 2005

Tom Romary, Jon Faller and I climbed Mt Baker via the Coleman/Deming route in August 2005.

We drove from Seattle on Friday night and camped at the very end of road 39 (just past the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead), which was an awesome place to car camp. It put us very close to the start of the climb and we woke up to stunning views of the mountain and great views of a deep wooded glacial valley. I’m actually not sure this is a legal place to camp, so don’t do it with your boy scout group.

We awoke to perfect weather—blue skies and not a cloud.

I had pneumonia.

I had coughed all night and didn’t sleep much as a result. As we had breakfast and packed our packs, I was totally undecided if I was going to drop Tom and Jon off and hang out in our illegal campsite for 2 days while they climbed or brave it. I had checked with the doctor who said that it really wouldn’t hurt me to climb. I never really decided to climb, but just got caught up in the packing & preparation and found myself at the trailhead and figured I’d see how far I could get.


We climbed the Heliotrope Ridge trail (also called the Mt Baker trail), which is gorgeous, water flowing everywhere, wildflowers abounding. The trail switchbacks up a very steep part of the mountain, and at times feels like it climbs straight up. My lungs were holding out, despite some hacking here and there. Tom and Jon didn’t seem to mind, so I kept going. We reached the glacier at 6000 feet. The lower glacier is heavily crevassed so we roped up and put crampons on. We arrived at our basecamp below the Black Buttes at 7000 feet at 3:30, just over 4 hours of hiking. I’d recommend this as basecamp as it broke up the hike well.

With the time we had, we tried out our crevasse rescue skills and watched Tom attempt to impress us with his ice climbing skills (which really just got him all wet.) It was very cool (literally) to climb down into this crevasse, something every mountaineer should experience.

Dinner sucked.

Someone had the great idea to mix everything into one bowl, soup, pasta, etc. Somehow it all turned into glue. We choked it down.


A million stars were out at night, with no moon, and shooting stars abundant. Any fears we had of the next day’s climb were stoked as we listened to the thundering icefall at night. My hacking cough surely guaranteed a good night’s sleep for Tom & Jon.

We awoke at 2:30AM and started hiking by 3:05.

Ascending from 7000 feet to 9000 feet we encountered many large crevasses and icefall. We crossed 2 snowbridges across 2 giant crevasses. I was leading and set some running pro because the bridges caused us to zigzag and would have left us unprotected. We climbed a steep face to a pumice ridge. We ascended this ridge to the “Roman Wall” which is about 800 feet high and fairly steep.

The conditions on the Roman Wall (and the rest of the climb for that matter) were excellent: cold firm snow.
This is where my pneumonia awoke. I suddenly noticed that I was heaving like a horse after the Kentucky Derby and looked down at Tom and Jon who were practically falling asleep because of our glacial pace. I felt bad and apologized. Using proper “rest step” technique, I kept moving.

We finally reached the summit at 7:15AM after 4 hours and 15 minutes of climbing. The weather was clear and windy at the top. We witnessed amazing views in every direction, including Mt Shuksan.

We descended to base camp and then the car. We made a bad decision to take our crampons off for the lower glacier and ran into a lot of blue ice which made for a very slippery go. We reached the car 11 hours after setting out that morning.

Tips for next time:

  • Bring a camera even if there are 2—both of the other cameras failed.
  • Make simple meals
  • Watch for crows! The crows at the car camping site were aggressive.
  • Eat more than you think you need while hiking
  • Keep crampons on until the end of the glacier

Trip Report: Climbing Mt Hood (Cooper Spur) & Mt Adams (Crescent Glacier Route)

August 30, 2004


Over a long weekend, August 30 2004, Alex Frankel and I attempted to climb Mt. Hood and Mt Adams.

The Hood climb was a bust. 

We had planned to climb the most popular “South Side Route“. We did some basic route planning such as consulting a few websites and reviewing the guidebook “Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes” by Jeff Smoot but this wasn’t enough. We arrived in the evening at the Timberline lodge and went to the climbers information center where we found only cobwebs. There was a sign that looked like it had come through an 80’s Xerox machine that was dated mid-July (we were there late August) which said that climbing was closed for the season due to high rock fall danger. A bit crestfallen, we searched for anyone that might have information on the climbing to see if we could learn more about the dangers on the main South Side route. There wasn’t a single climber to be found. We even went so far as asking some of the wait staff at the bar in the Timberline—nobody knew anything. Where were all the climbers?!

Being the conservative climbers that we are, Alex and I discussed finding a different route. We picked the “Cooper Spur” route and thus decided to travel to the east side of the mountain and camp at the “Cloud Cap” Campground. We pulled into Cloud Cap very late and hit the sack. 

We woke early (5am or so) and got on the trail to Cooper Spur. The weather was clear and warm. After hiking above the treeline, we quickly realized that the Cooper Spur was not climbable. The upper snow slopes had completely melted out leaving only steep, bare rock… not what we planned.


We decided to follow our backup plan which was to drop from the Cooper Spur ridge to the Eliot Glacier, cross the lower glacier and follow the Eliot Glacier/Sunshine route. Dropping off the ridge was sketchy as it was a long, loose, steep scree field, though we made it without problem. Once on the glacier, the mountain started coming alive. Rockfall, icefall and other thundering sounds began to echo through the valley. We took a break to examine the line we would follow. The route wasn’t totally clear and the only way we saw took us under what looked like a lot of rockfall. After a bit of debate we decided we weren’t comfortable with the conditions and to abandon the climb.

In hindsight, had we called the local Ranger station, we might have learned that the South Side route was hazardous because of rockfall and decided to either pick something else or return to Hood another year, earlier in the season.  

We descended and drove to Mt Adams.

We camped at the Cold Springs campground where we learned too late that there was no water. (Actually, I think we knew this but screwed up and forgot to refill.) Anyhow, low on water, we did our best to conserve.

We left the Cold Springs Campground at 6AM and ascended Mt Adams via the “South Spur Route” on the south side of the mountain. The weather was perfect, clear and sunny. We didn’t bring a rope, and never even needed to pull our crampons out of our packs. The sun had warmed up the snowfield just enough to kick our toes in to get purchase on the snow. The climb took 4.5 hours from the campground to the top. Pretty uneventful climb, but very worth it—great views.

Here are some personal notes for future trips:

  • Bring a camelback
  • Pop an advil on the top of the summit to avoid the inevitable headache upon descent
  • Would be great to have some mini-crampons to fit on leather hiking boots (rather than heavy mountaineering boots)
  • A new lightweight 9mm rope would be great
  • Next time call the ranger station to get up to date info
  • GPS & altimeter would be great for navigation. 

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